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Publications

Journal Articles

Deep learning for retrieving omni-directional ocean wave spectra from spaceborne synthetic aperture radar - Remote Sensing of Environment,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.rse.2024.114386,August 2024
Phase-Resolved Swells Across Ocean Basins in SWOT Altimetry Data: Revealing Centimeter-Scale Wave Heights Including Coastal Reflection - Geophysical Research Letters,https://doi.org/10.1029/2024GL109658,August 2024
A Comparison of Wave Directional Spreading Measurements Made With a Spotter Buoy and a Directional Waverider Buoy in Parallel - American Society of Mechanical Engineers 2024 43rd International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1115/OMAE2024-126998,August 2024
Challenges and Opportunities for Floating Offshore Wind Energy in Ultradeep Waters of the Central Atlantic - National Renewable Energy Laboratory,https://doi.org/10.2172/2429393,August 2024
Performance-based target reliability analysis of offshore wind turbine mooring lines subjected to the wind and wave - Probabilistic Engineering Mechanics,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.probengmech.2024.103673,August 2024
An empirical model for skillful rogue wave forecasts - Journal of Physical Oceanography,https://doi.org/10.1175/JPO-D-24-0013.1,July 2024
Coastal Significant Wave Height Retrieval Using Ground-Based GNSS Interferometric Reflectometry - IEEE,https://doi.org/10.1109/LGRS.2024.3431706,July 2024
Prediction of freak waves from buoy measurements - Nature Scientific Reports,https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-024-66315-3,July 2024
Uncertainty in Sea State Observations from Satellite Altimeters and Buoys during the Jason-3/Sentinel-6 MF Tandem Experiment - Remote Sensing,https://doi.org/10.3390/rs16132395,June 2024
The 2019 Marine Heatwave at Ocean Station Papa: A Multi-Disciplinary Assessment of Ocean Conditions and Impacts on Marine Ecosystems - Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans,https://doi.org/10.1029/2023JC020167,June 2024
Statistical downscaling of coastal directional wave spectra using deep learning - Coastal Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104557,June 2024
Ambient Seismic Noise Tomography Within the Floridan Aquifer System, Santa Fe River-Sink Rise, Florida, US - Journal of Geophysical Research: Solid Earth,https://doi.org/10.1029/2023JB027644,May 2024
Countermeasures for Astronaut Entry Motion Sickness During Water Landings - IEEE,https://doi.org/10.1109/AERO58975.2024.10521392,May 2024
Temporal and spatial diversity and abundance of cryptophytes in San Diego coastal waters - Journal of Phycology,https://doi.org/10.1111/jpy.13451,May 2024
Infragravity Wave Oscillation Forecasting in a Shallow Estuary - Journal of Marine Science and Engineering,https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12040672,April 2024
Climate Drivers and Human Impacts Shape 35-Year Trends of Coastal Wetland Health and Composition in an Urban Region - Ecosphere,https://doi.org/10.1002/ecs2.4832,April 2024
Characterizing Interference in a Wave-Powered Buoy - US DOE OSTI,https://doi.org/10.2172/2337853,April 2024
Quantifying compound flood event uncertainties in a wave and tidally dominated coastal region: The impacts of copula selection, sampling, record length, and precipitation gauge selection - Journal of Flood Risk Management,https://doi.org/10.1111/jfr3.12984,March 2024
Forecast-based stochastic optimization for a load powered by wave energy - Renewable Energy,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.renene.2024.120330,March 2024
Rising sea levels and the increase of shoreline wave energy at American Samoa - Nature Scientific Reports,https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-024-55636-y,March 2024
Dispersal synchronizes giant kelp forests - Ecological Society of America,https://doi.org/10.1002/ecy.4270,February 2024
Performance of moored GPS wave buoys - Coastal Engineering Journal,https://doi.org/10.1080/21664250.2023.2295105,January 2024
Characterizing longshore transport potential and divergence of drift to inform beach loss trends - Coastal Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104473,January 2024
Spatial synchrony cascades across ecosystem boundaries and up food webs via resource subsidies - Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences,https://doi.org/10.1073/pnas.2310052120,January 2024
A Decade of Death and Other Dynamics: Deepening Perspectives on the Diversity and Distribution of Sea Stars and Wasting - The Biological Bulletin,https://doi.org/10.1086/727969,December 2023
NDBC Wave Observation Changes - IEEE,10.23919/OCEANS52994.2023.10337180,December 2023
Update on NOAA's Development and Test of Measuring Waves with a Radar Tide Gauge - IEEE,10.23919/OCEANS52994.2023.10337339,December 2023
Development and testing of microSWIFT expendable wave buoys - Coastal Engineering Journal,https://doi.org/10.1080/21664250.2023.2283325,November 2023
Machine-guided discovery of a real-world rogue wave model - Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences,https://www.pnas.org/doi/epdf/10.1073/pnas.2306275,November 2023
NDBC wave observation system update - Coastal Engineering Journal,https://doi.org/10.1080/21664250.2023.2267724,November 2023
Mechanisms controlling giant sea salt aerosol size distributions along a tropical orographic coastline - Atmospheric Chemistry and Physics,https://doi.org/10.5194/acp-23-13735-2023,November 2023
A Deep Learning-Based Paradigm for Retrieving Ocean Wave Spectra from Spaceborne SAR - IEEE,10.1109/BIGSARDATA59007.2023.10294734,November 2023
Monitoring Coastal Waves with ICESat-2 - Journal of Marine Science and Engineering,https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11112082,October 2023
Virtual reality as a countermeasure for astronaut motion sickness during simulated post-flight water landings - Experimental Brain Research,https://doi.org/10.1007/s00221-023-06715-5,October 2023
Are Rogue Waves Predictable From Field Measurements? - ASME 2023 42nd International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1115/OMAE2023-103020,September 2023
Performance of a One-Dimensional Model of Wave-Driven Nearshore Alongshore Tracer Transport and Decay with Applications for Dry Weather Coastal Pollution - Environmental Science and Technology,https://doi.org/10.1021/acs.est.2c08656,September 2023
Wave damping by giant kelp, Macrocystis pyrifera - Annals of Botany,https://doi.org/10.1093/aob/mcad094,July 2023
Efficient modeling of wave generation and propagation in a semi-enclosed estuary - Ocean Modelling,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2023.102231,June 2023
Optimizing Simultaneous Water Level and Wave Measurements From Multi-GNSS Interferometric Reflectometry Over 1 Year at an Exposed Coastal Site - Earth and Space Science,https://doi.org/10.1029/2022EA002767,June 2023
Using dune restoration on an urban beach as a coastal resilience approach - Frontiers in Marine Science,https://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2023.1187488,June 2023
Improvement in the Post-Processing of Wave Buoy Data Driven by the Needs of a National Coast and Sea Monitoring Agency - Sensors,https://doi.org/10.3390/s23125371,June 2023
Swash-by-Swash Morphology Change on a Dynamic Cobble Berm Revetment: High-Resolution Cross-Shore Measurements - Coastal Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2023.104341,June 2023
Patterns of Overlapping Habitat Use of Juvenile White Shark and Human Recreational Water Users Along Southern California Beaches - PLOS ONE,https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0286575,June 2023
A Model Integrating Satellite-Derived Shoreline Observations for Predicting Fine-Scale Shoreline Response to Waves and Sea-Level Rise Across Large Coastal Regions - JGR Earth Surface,https://doi.org/10.1029/2022JF006936,May 2023
Wave Climate and Energy Resources in the Mariana Islands From a 42-Year High-Resolution Hindcast - Renewable Energy,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.renene.2023.05.093,May 2023
The Efficacy of VR as a Countermeasure for Astronaut Motion Sickness in Post-Flight Water Landings - 2023 IEEE Aerospace Conference,10.1109/AERO55745.2023.10115577,May 2023
Experimental Investigation of a Reverse Osmosis Desalination System Directly Powered by Wave Energy - Applied Energy,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.apenergy.2023.121194,May 2023
Designing A Data Buoy Network To Support Offshore Wind Energy Development In Southern New England - Offshore Technology Conference,https://doi.org/10.4043/32273-MS,April 2023
The Potential for Coral Reef Restoration to Mitigate Coastal Flooding as Sea Levels Rise - Nature Communications,https://doi.org/10.1038/s41467-023-37858-2,April 2023
Late Holocene Cliff Retreat in Del Mar, CA, Revealed From Shore Platform 10Be Concentrations and Numerical Modeling - JGR Earth Surface,https://doi.org/10.1029/2022JF006855,April 2023
Development and Skill Assessment of a Real-Time Hydrologic-Hydrodynamic-Wave Modeling System for Lake Champlain Flood Forecasting - Ocean Dynamics,https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-023-01550-2,April 2023
On Consistent Parameterizations for Both Dominant Wind-Waves and Spectral Tail Directionality - JGR Oceans,https://doi.org/10.1029/2022JC019581,April 2023
Monitoring and modeling dispersal of a submerged nearshore berm at the mouth of the Columbia River, USA - Coastal Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2023.104285,April 2023
Revisiting HF Ground Wave Propagation Losses Over the Ocean: A Comparison of Long-Term Observations and Models - Radio Science,https://doi.org/10.1029/2022RS007550,March 2023
Significant Wave Height Prediction Through Artificial Intelligent Mode Decomposition for Wave Energy Management - Energy and AI,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.egyai.2023.100257,March 2023
Multi-Decade High-Resolution Regional Hindcasts for Wave Energy Resource Characterization in U.S. Coastal Waters - Renewable Energy,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.renene.2023.03.100,March 2023
Short-Term Variability of Atmospheric Helium Revealed Through a Cryo-Enrichment Method - Atmospheric Measurement Techniques,https://doi.org/10.5194/amt-16-1551-2023,March 2023
Data-Driven Modeling of Bay-Ocean Wave Spectra at Bridge-Tunnel Crossing of Chesapeake Bay, USA - Applied Ocean Research,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.apor.2023.103537,March 2023
Time Variation Trend of Wave Power Density in the South China Sea - Journal of Marine Science and Engineering,https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse11030608,March 2023
Conditional sea surface statistics and their impact on geophysical sea surface parameters retrieved from SAR altimetry signals - Advances in Space Research,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.asr.2022.12.034,March 2023
Wave influence on altimetry sea level at the coast - Coastal Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2022.104275,March 2023
Predicting Overtopping Rate With XBeach, Considering Future Sea Level Rise - Proceedings Volume 12551, Fourth International Conference on Geoscience and Remote Sensing Mapping,https://doi.org/10.1117/12.2668447,February 2023
Heterobranch Sea Slugs from Hazard Canyon Reef, San Luis Obispo County, California - Proceedings of the California Academy of Sciences,February 2023
Characterizing Coastal Wind Speed and Significant Wave Height Using Satellite Altimetry and Buoy Data - Remote Sensing,https://doi.org/10.3390/rs15040987,February 2023
Modelling Wave Group-Scale Hydrodynamics on Orthogonal Unstructured Meshes - Environmental Modelling & Software,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envsoft.2023.105655,February 2023
Low-Cost Sensors for Monitoring Coastal Climate Hazards: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis - Sensors,https://doi.org/10.3390/s23031717,February 2023
Marine protected areas, marine heatwaves, and the resilience of nearshore fish communities - Nature Scientific Reports,https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-023-28507-1,January 2023
Directional wave measurements from navigational buoys - Ocean Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2022.113161,January 2023
Data-driven, high resolution ocean wave forecasting and extreme wave predictions - Ocean Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2022.113271,January 2023
Mouth Morphodynamics of an Intermittently Closed Estuary in Response to Storm Events - Coastal Sediments,https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811275135_0238,January 2023
Observation and Numerical Modeling of a Dune Overwash and Breaching Event - Coastal Sediments,https://doi.org/10.1142/9789811275135_0072,January 2023
“SeaWARRDD”: Coastal Warning and Rapid Response Data Density: Rethinking Coastal Ocean Observing, Intelligence, Resilience, and Prediction - Marine Technology Society,https://doi.org/10.4031/MTSJ.56.6.4,November 2022
A Framework for Feasibility-Level Validation of High-Resolution Wave Hindcast Models - Ocean Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2022.112193,November 2022
Determining Errors in Directional Buoy-Derived Swell Heights via the Joint Analysis of Space-Borne Radars and WaveWatch III Simulations - IEEE Geoscience and Remote Sensing Letters,https://doi.org/10.1109/LGRS.2022.3216667,October 2022
Alongshore Variability of a Southern California Beach, Before and After Nourishment - Coastal Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2022.104223,September 2022
Hydrodynamic Variability of an Intermittently Closed Estuary over Interannual, Seasonal, Fortnightly, and Tidal Timescales - Estuaries and Coasts,https://doi.org/10.1007/s12237-021-01014-0,September 2022
On the Non-Gaussianity of Sea Surface Elevations - Journal of Marine Science and Engineering,https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10091303,September 2022
A Sea Level Rise Resilient Design for the Royal Hawaiian Groin, Waikiki, Hawaii - ASCE,https://ascelibrary.org/doi/10.1061/9780784484395.,September 2022
Measuring a Rogue? An Investigation into an Apparent Giant Wave - Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology,https://doi.org/10.1175/JTECH-D-21-0108.1,August 2022
Environmental Context Dependency in Species Interactions - PNAS,https://doi.org/10.1073/pnas.2118539119,July 2022
Tilt Error in NDBC Ocean Wave Height Records - Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology,https://doi.org/10.1175/JTECH-D-21-0079.1,July 2022
Spatial and Temporal Trends in California Coastal Cliff Retreat - Geomorphology,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geomorph.2022.108318,May 2022
Characterizing Storm-Induced Coastal Change Hazards Along the United States West Coast - Nature Scientific Data,https://doi.org/10.1038/s41597-022-01313-6,May 2022
Phase Resolving Runup and Overtopping Field Validation of SWASH - Coastal Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2022.104128,May 2022
External Fishing Effort Regulates Positive Effects of No-Take Marine Protected Areas - Biological Conservation,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.biocon.2022.109546,April 2022
Performance Evaluation of the Newly Operational NDBC 2.1-m Hull - Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology,https://doi.org/10.1175/JTECH-D-21-0172.1,April 2022
Characterizing Rogue Waves at the Entrance of Tampa Bay (Florida, USA) - Journal of Marine Science and Engineering,https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse10040507,April 2022
An Approach to Approximate Wave Height from Acoustic Tide Gauges - Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology,https://doi.org/10.1175/JTECH-D-20-0212.1,March 2022
Tail-Dependent Spatial Synchrony Arises from Nonlinear Driver–Response Relationships - Ecology Letters,https://doi.org/10.1111/ele.13991,March 2022
Wind-Stress Variations from Deep to Shallow Water During Hurricanes for Air-Sea-Land Interaction Applications - Advances in Environmental and Engineering Research,http://dx.doi.org/10.21926/aeer.2201006,February 2022
Assessment of Ocean Swell Height Observations from Sentinel-1A/B Wave Mode Against Buoy In Situ and Modeling Hindcasts - https://doi.org/10.3390/rs14040862,Remote Sensing,February 2022
Rogue Ocean Waves and the St. Petersburg Paradox - Physical Review E,https://doi.org/10.1103/PhysRevE.105.025103,February 2022
A Broadband View of the Sea Surface Height Wavenumber Spectrum - Geophysical Research Letters,https://doi.org/10.1029/2021GL096699,February 2022
Numerical Modeling of Extreme Wave Interaction with Point-Absorber Using OpenFOAM - Ocean Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2021.110268,February 2022
Nutrient Availability and Senescence Spatially Structure the Dynamics of a Foundation Species - PNAS,https://doi.org/10.1073/pnas.2105135118,December 2021
Generating an Ensemble of Mutually Exclusive and Exhaustive Waves Targeted for Extreme Responses - Ocean Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2021.110172,December 2021
On the Non-Gaussianity of the Height of Sea Waves - Journal of Marine Science and Engineering,https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse9121446,December 2021
Estimating Nearshore Waves by Assimilating Buoy Directional Spectrum Data in SWAN - Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology,https://doi.org/10.1175/JTECH-D-21-0040.1,December 2021
Enhanced Surf Zone and Wave Runup Observations with Hovering Drone-Mounted Lidar - Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology,https://doi.org/10.1175/JTECH-D-21-0027.1,November 2021
Long-Distance/Time Surf-Zone Tracer Evolution Affected by Inner-Shelf Tracer Retention and Recirculation - JGR Oceans,https://doi.org/10.1029/2021JC017661,October 2021
Modeling the Relative Influence of Environmental Controls on Marine Terrace Widths - Geomorphology,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geomorph.2021.107986,October 2021
Multi-Data Ensemble Estimation of Wave Energy Potential in Indonesian Seas - Journal of Coastal Research,https://doi.org/10.2112/JCR-SI114-055.1,October 2021
Simulating Ocean Wave Movement in a Soft Pneumatic Surface - 2021 IEEE/RSJ International Conference on Intelligent Robots and Systems (IROS),10.1109/IROS51168.2021.9636056,September 2021
Strong Extratropical Cyclone Generated Ocean Swells in the Northern Pacific from Modeling and In-situ Observations on the Hawaiian Islands - Ocean Modeling,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2021.101888,September 2021
Swell Generation Under Extra-Tropical Storms - JGR Oceans,https://doi.org/10.1029/2021JC017637,August 2021
Behaviour and performance of a dynamic cobble berm revetment during a spring tidal cycle in North Cove, Washington State, USA - Coastal Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.103898,August 2021
Global Wave Hindcasts Using the Observation-Based Source Terms: Description and Validation - Journal of Advances in Modeling Earth Systems,https://doi.org/10.1029/2021MS002493,July 2021
A global wave parameter database for geophysical applications. Part 3: Improved forcing and spectral resolution - Ocean Modelling,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2021.101848,July 2021
Sediment Resuspension and Transport from a Glider-Integrated Laser in Situ Scattering and Transmissometry (LISST) Particle Analyzer - Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology,https://doi.org/10.1175/JTECH-D-20-0207.1,July 2021
Seasonality of Wind Speeds and Wave Heights from 30 Years of Satellite Altimetry - Advances in Space Research,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.asr.2019.09.057,July 2021
FOWD: A Free Ocean Wave Dataset for Data Mining and Machine Learning - Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology,https://doi.org/10.1175/JTECH-D-20-0185.1,July 2021
Seasonal Distribution and Abundance of Tidepool Fishes at Six Locations within the Southern California Bight, 2004-2005 - Bulletin of the Southern California Academy of Sciences,https://doi.org/10.3160/0038-3872-120.1.1,June 2021
Development and Calibration of a High-Resolution Model for the Gulf of Mexico, Puerto Rico, and the U.S. Virgin Islands: Implication for Wave Energy Resource Characterization - Ocean Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2021.109304,June 2021
Total Surface Current Vector and Shear From a Sequence of Satellite Images: Effect of Waves in Opposite Directions - JGR Oceans,https://doi.org/10.1029/2021JC017342,June 2021
Airborne Transmission Pathway for Coastal Water Pollution - PeerJ ,https://doi.org/10.7717/peerj.11358,June 2021
Species Archetype Models Of Kelp Forest Communities Reveal Diverse Responses To Environmental Gradients - Oceanography,https://www.jstor.org/stable/27085041,June 2021
A Wavelet-Based Wave Group Detector and Predictor of Extreme Events Over Unidirectional Sloping Bathymetry - Ocean Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2021.108936,June 2021
Morphological Response of Variable River Discharge and Wave Forcing at a Bar-Built Estuary - Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecss.2021.107438,May 2021
Real-world rogue wave probabilities - Scientific Reports,https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-021-89359-1,May 2021
Quantifying wave measurement differences in historical and present wave buoy systems - Ocean Dynamics,https://doi.org/10.1007/s10236-021-01461-0,May 2021
Diagnosing surfzone impacts on inner-shelf flow spatial variability using realistic model experiments with and without surface gravity waves - Journal of Physical Oceanography,https://doi.org/10.1175/JPO-D-20-0324.1,May 2021
Citizen-Sourced Sightings and Underwater Photography Reveal Novel Insights About Green Sea Turtle Distribution and Ecology in Southern California - Frontiers in Marine Science,https://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2021.671061,May 2021
Effects of Sea-Level Rise and Storm-Enhanced Flooding on Pacific Harbour Seal Habitat: A Comparison of Haul-Out Changes at the Russian and Eel River Estuaries - Aquatic Conservation,https://doi.org/10.1002/aqc.3574,April 2021
Wave Energy Resources Assessment for the Multi-Modal Sea State of Hawaii - Renewable Energy,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.renene.2021.03.116,March 2021
The Impacts of the 2015/2016 El Niño on California's Sandy Beaches - Geomorphology,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geomorph.2020.107583,March 2021
Large-Scale Conditions for the Record-Setting Southern California Marine Heatwave of August 2018 - Geophysical Research Letters,https://doi.org/10.1029/2020GL091803,March 2021
Assessment of ICESat-2 for the recovery of ocean topography - Geophysical Journal International,https://doi.org/10.1093/gji/ggab084,March 2021
Evaluating Monin–Obukhov Scaling in the Unstable Oceanic Surface Layer - Journal of Physical Oceanography,DOI: 10.1175/JPO-D-20-0201.1,March 2021
An Automated Method for Mapping Giant Kelp Canopy Dynamics from UAV - Frontiers in Environmental Science,Front. Environ. Sci. 8:587354. doi: 10.3389/fenvs.,February 2021
Variation in Disturbance to a Foundation Species Structures the Dynamics of a Benthic Reef Community - Ecology,https://doi.org/10.1002/ecy.3304,February 2021
Turbulence Driven by Reflected Internal Tides in a Supercritical Submarine Canyon - Journal of Physical Oceanography,DOI: 10.1175/JPO-D-20-0123.1,February 2021
Evaluating the Feasibility and Advantage of a Multi‑Purpose Submerged Breakwater for Harbor Protection and Benthic Habitat Enhancement at Kahului Commercial Harbor, Hawai‘i Case Study - SN Applied Sciences,https://doi.org/10.1007/s42452-020-04072-4,January 2021
Systems Evaluation for Defense Operations of Maritime Transport - IEEE,10.1109/SysCon47679.2020.9275887,December 2020
Influence of Hurricane Wind Field Variability on Real-Time Forecast Simulations of the Coastal Environment - Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans,https://doi.org/10.1029/2020JC016489,December 2020
Three Years of Weekly Observations of Coastal Cliff Erosion by Waves and Rainfall - Geomorphology,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geomorph.2020.107545,November 2020
Observations and Preliminary Vulnerability Assessment of a Hybrid Dune-Based Living Shoreline - Journal of Marine Science and Engineering,https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse8110920,November 2020
Spectral Wave Modelling of the Extreme 2013-2014 Winter Storms in the North-East Atlantic - Ocean Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2020.108012,November 2020
Measured Rogue Waves and Their Environment - Journal of Marine Science and Engineering,https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse8110890,November 2020
Observations of Surface Cobbles at Two Southern California Beaches - Marine Geology,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2019.106049,October 2020
Impacts of Hurricane Winds and Precipitation on Hydrodynamics in a Back-Barrier Estuary - Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans,https://doi.org/10.1029/2020JC016483,September 2020
Wave Dissipation by Bottom Friction on the Inner Shelf of a Rocky Shore - Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans,https://doi.org/10.1029/2019JC015963,September 2020
Unsteady Ekman-Stokes Dynamics Implications for Surface Wave-Induced Drift of Floating Marine Litter - Geophysical Research Letters, https://doi.org/10.1029/2020GL089189,September 2020
Segmented Identification of Disruptive Settings on Transportation Corridors - International Conference on Transportation and Development 2020,https://doi.org/10.1061/9780784483152.013,August 2020
A Global Sea State Dataset from Spaceborne Synthetic Aperture Radar Wave Mode Data - Nature Scientific Data,(2020) 7:261 | https://doi.org/10.1038/s41597-020-,August 2020
Mechanisms of Mid- to Outer-Shelf Transport of Shoreline-Released Tracers - Journal of Physical Oceanography,J. Phys. Oceanogr., 50, 1813–1837, https://doi.o,July 2020
Predicting site‑specific storm wave run‑up - Natural Hazards,Nat Hazards (2020). https://doi.org/10.1007/s11069,July 2020
Submesoscale current effects on surface waves - Ocean Modelling,Ocean Modelling. 101662. 10.1016/j.ocemod.2020.101,July 2020
Deep Learning for Predicting Significant Wave Height From Synthetic Aperture Radar - IEEE Transactions On Geoscience and Remote Sensing,IEEE Transactions on Geoscience and Remote Sensing,June 2020
Development and validation of a high-resolution regional wave hindcast model for U.S. West Coast wave resource characterization - Renewable Energy,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.renene.2020.01.077,June 2020
Open Wave Height Logger: An open source pressure sensor data logger for wave measurement - Limnology and Oceanography: Methods,Limnol Oceanogr Methods, 18: 335-345. doi:10.1002/,May 2020
Characteristics and Variability of the Nearshore Wave Resource on the U.S. West Coast - Energy,Energy 203 (2020) 117818,May 2020
Coral bleaching variability during the 2017 global bleaching event on a remote, uninhabited island in the western Pacific: Farallon de Medinilla, Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands - Bulletin of Marine Science,Bulletin of Marine Science. 10.5343/bms.2019.0083.,May 2020
A Tidal Hydrodynamic Model for Cook Inlet, Alaska, to Support Tidal Energy Resource Characterization - Journal of Marine Science and Engineering,Journal of Marine Science and Engineering. 8. 254.,April 2020
Random Forest Classifier Based Prediction of Rogue waves on Deep Oceans - March 2020
Participatory science for coastal water quality: freshwater plume mapping and volunteer retention in a randomized informational intervention - Environmental Science Processes & Impacts,Environ Sci Process Impacts. 2020;22(4):918-929. d,February 2020
Effects of Elevated Sea Levels and Waves on Southern California Estuaries During the 2015–2016 El Niño - Estuaries and Coasts,Estuaries and Coasts 43, 256–271 (2020),January 2020
A Method for Identifying Kolmogorov’s Inertial Subrange in the Velocity Variance Spectrum - Journal of Atmos. Oceanic Technol.,J. Atmos. Oceanic Technol., 37, 85–102, https://,January 2020
Cross-Shore Deformation of a Surfzone-Released Dye Plume by an Internal Tide on the Inner Shelf - Journal of Physical Oceanography,J. Phys. Oceanogr., 50, 35–54, https://doi.org/1,January 2020
Research Progress of Wave Energy Evaluation - Springer Oceanography,Springer Oceanography. Springer, Singapore. https:,October 2019
Seasonal intensification and trends of rogue wave events on the US western seaboard - Nature Scientific Reports,9, 4461 (2019) doi:10.1038/s41598-019-41099-z,March 2019
Coastal Sea Level and Related Fields from Existing Observing Systems - Surveys in Geophysics,40: 1293. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10712-019-09513,January 2019
Marine Observing Applications Using AIS: Automatic Identification System - Frontiers in Marine Science,January 2019
Enhancing the resilience of energy systems: Optimal deployment of wave energy devices following coastal storms - Journal of Renewable and Sustainable Energy,11, 034501 (2019); https://doi.org/10.1063/1.50937,January 2019
Wave prediction using wave rider position measurements and NARX network in wave energy conversion - Applied Ocean Research,January 2019
Evaluating ocean wave spectra derived from quad-polarized GF-3 wave mode SAR images against buoys - Proc. SPIE 11150, Remote Sensing of the Ocean, Sea Ice, Coastal Waters, and Large Water Regions,111500G (14 October 2019); https://doi.org/10.1117,January 2019
Mechanical properties of the wave-swept kelp Egregia menziesii change with season, growth rate and herbivore wounds - Journal of Experimental Biology,January 2019
Cross-shore Deformation of a Surfzone Released Dye Plume by an Internal Tide on the Inner-shelf - Journal of Physical Oceanography,January 2019
Wave Measurements From Radar Tide Gauges - Frontiers in Marine Science,January 2019
Wave and Circulation Modeling of Infrastructure Installations at Rota Harbor in the Northern Marianna Islands - American Society for Engineering Education,January 2019
Performance Characteristics of Spotter, a Newly Developed Real-Time Wave Measurement Buoy - Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology,January 2019
Assessing drivers of rocky reef fish biomass density from the Southern California Bight - Marine Ecology Progress Series,January 2019
Swell Propagation through Submesoscale Turbulence - Journal of Physical Oceanography,January 2019
Exploring Marine and Aeolian Controls on Coastal Foredune Growth Using a Coupled Numerical Model - Journal of Marine Science and Engineering,7(1), 13; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse7010013,January 2019
Coastal Mooring Observing Networks and Their Data Products: Recommendations for the Next Decade - Frontiers in Marine Science,6:180. doi: 10.3389/fmars.2019.00180,January 2019
The Amplitude and Origin of Sea-Level Variability During the Pliocene Epoch - Nature,Vol 574, pages237–241(2019),January 2019
Experimental Study of the Statistical Properties of Directionally Spread Ocean Waves Measured by Buoys - Journal of Physical Oceanography,January 2019
The Nearshore Heat Budget: Effects of Stratification and Surfzone Dynamics - Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans,124. https://doi.org/10.1029/ 2019JC015494,January 2019
Spatiotemporal Variability in Seawater Carbon Chemistry for a Coral Reef Flat in Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii - Limnology and Oceanography,January 2019
Observing Sea States - Frontiers in Marine Science,6:124. doi: 10.3389/fmars.2019.00124 ,January 2019
A Method for Identifying Kolmogorovs Inertial Subrange in the Velocity Variance Spectrum - Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology,January 2019
Forecasts of Wave-Induced Coastal Hazards in the United States Pacific Islands: Past, Present, and the Future - Frontiers in Marine Science,6:170. doi: 10.3389/fmars.2019.00170,January 2019
Data Return Aspects of CODAR and WERA High-Frequency Radars in Mapping Currents - Observing the Oceans in Real Time,Springer Oceanography. Springer, Cham,January 2019
NOAAs Physical Oceanographic Real-Time System (PORTS) - Journal of Operational Oceanography,12:sup2, S176-S186, DOI: 10.1080/1755876X.2018.154,January 2019
Dynamic Measurements of Black Oystercatcher (Haematopus Bachmani) Predation on Mussels (Mytilus Californianus) - Invertebrate Biology,January 2019
Applying Dynamically Updated Nearshore Bathymetry Estimates to Operational Nearshore Wave Modeling - Coastal Engineering,Coastal Engineering 145 (2019) 53–64,December 2018
Multiple-Scale Variations of Wind-Generated Waves in the Southern California Bight - Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans,https://doi.org/10.1029/2018JC014505,December 2018
The Competing Effects of Breaking Waves on Surfzone Heat Fluxes Albedo Versus Wave Heating - Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans,https://doi.org/10.1029/2018JC014284,October 2018
Wave Buoy Performance in Short and Long Waves, Evaluated Using Tests on a Hexapod - American Society of Mechanical Engineers 2018 37th International Conference on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1115/OMAE2018-77092,September 2018
Calibration and assessment of process-based numerical models for beach profile evolution in southern California - Coastal Engineering,Coastal Engineering. 158. 103650. 10.1016/j.coasta,September 2018
Can Rogue Waves Be Predicted Using Characteristic Wave Parameters? - JGR Oceans,Vol. 123, No. 8, pp5624-5636,August 2018
Nourishment evolution and impacts at four southern California beaches: A sand volume analysis - Coastal Engineering,Coastal Engineering, 136, 96-105. doi: 10.1016/j.c,March 2018
Evaluating Regional Resiliency of Coastal Wetlands to Sea Level Rise Through Hypsometry-Based Modeling - Global Change Biology,2019;25:78-92. https://doi.org/ 10.1111/gcb.14429,January 2018
Integrated Ocean, Earth, and Atmospheric Observations for Resilience Planning in Hampton Roads, Virginia - Marine Technology Society Journal,52(2), 68-83. doi:10.4031/MTSJ.52.2.8,January 2018
Scale-Specific Drivers of Kelp Forest Communities - Oecologia (2018),186: 217. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00442-017-3994-,January 2018
Recovery of Reef-Scale Calcification Following a Bleaching Event in Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii - Limnology and Oceanography Letters,January 2018
Do Wave Heights and Water Levels Increase Ocean Lifeguard Rescues - The American Journal of Emergency Medicine,January 2018
Storm Surge Propagation and Flooding in Small Tidal Rivers during Events of Mixed Coastal and Fluvial Influence - Journal of Marine Science and Engineering,January 2018
Measurements of Directional Wave Spectra and Wind Stress from a Wave Glider Autonomous Surface Vehicle - Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology,January 2018
Real Time Observations of Oceanographic and Meteorological Parameters for Maritime Transportation: Origins and Novel Applications - Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers,January 2018
Low-cost Wave Characterization Modules for Oil Spill Response - Journal of Ocean Engineering and Science,January 2018
Integration of Wave Energy Harnessing Technologies to the Needs of Coastal Societies in North Carolina - The American Society of Mechanical Engineers,January 2018
Measuring Infrasound from the Maritime Environment - Infrasound Monitoring for Atmospheric Studies,Cham,January 2018
New Insights on Coastal Foredune Growth: the Relative Contributions of Marine and Aeolian Processes - Geophysical Research Letters,45, 4965-4973. https://doi.org/10.1029/ 2018GL0778,January 2018
Dynamic Validation of Ocean Swell Derived from Sentinel-1 Wave Mode Against Buoys - Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers,January 2018
Status and Near-Term Plans for the U.S. IOOS Quality Assurance Quality Control of Real-time Oceanographic Data (QARTOD) Project - Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers,January 2018
Identification of Storm Events and Contiguous Coastal Sections for Deterministic Modeling of Extreme Coastal Flood Events in Response to Climate Change - Coastal Engineering,January 2018
Projected 21st Century Coastal Flooding in the Southern California Bight. Part 1: Development of the Third Generation CoSMoS Model - Journal of Marine Science and Engineering,January 2018
Implementation of an Automated Beach Water Quality Nowcast System at Ten California Oceanic Beaches - Journal of Environmental Management,January 2018
Wave Measurements from Pulse Microwave Radar Tide Gauges - Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers,January 2018
Observations of Shelf Exchange and High-Frequency Variability in an Alaskan Fjord - Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans,January 2018
Detection Efficiency of Acoustic Biotelemetry Sensors on Wave Gliders - Animal Biotelemetry ,6, 16 (2018) doi:10.1186/s40317-018-0160-4,January 2018
Decadal-Scale Coastal Cliff Retreat in Southern and Central California - Geomorphology,January 2018
Observations of Nonlinear Internal Wave Run-Up to the Surfzone - Journal of Physical Oceanography,January 2018
A Machine Learning Framework to Forecast Wave Conditions - Coastal Engineering,January 2018
Infragravity Wave Radiation Across the Shelf Break - Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans,January 2018
Field Observations on Courtship and Spawning Behavior of the Giant Sea Bass, Stereolepis gigas - Copeia,March 2018, Vol. 106, No. 1, pp. 171-179.,January 2018
Currents, Waves and Sediment Transport Around the Headland of Pt. Dume, California - Continental Shelf Research,January 2018
The Hierarchical Spectral Merger Algorithm: A New Time Series Clustering Procedure - Journal of Classification,January 2018
Semi-Analytical Karhunen-Loeve Representation of Irregular Waves Based on the Prolate Spheroidal Wave Functions - Journal of Computational Physics,January 2018
Multisensor, Microseismic Observations of a Hurricane Transit Near the ALOHA Cabled Observatory - Journal of Geophysical Research: Solid Earth,January 2018
An Ensemble-based Approach that Combines Machine Learning and Numerical Models to Improve Forecasts of Wave Conditions - IEEE,OCEANS 2017 - Anchorage, Anchorage, AK, 2017, pp. ,December 2017
Bulk Versus Spectral Wave Parameters Implications on Stokes Drift Estimates, Regional Wave Modeling, and HF Radars Applications - Journal of Physical Oceanography,DOI: 10.1175/JPO-D-16-0203.1,June 2017
Surface Wave Breaking Over Sheared Currents: Observations from the Mouth of the Columbia River - JGR Oceans,https://doi.org/10.1002/2016JC012498,May 2017
Extreme oceanographic forcing and coastal response due to the 2015–2016 El Niño - Nature Communications,Nature Communications, 8(14365). doi: 10.1038/ncom,February 2017
Assimilating Global Wave Model Predictions and Deep-Water Wave Observations in Nearshore Swell Predictions - Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology,January 2017
Controls of Multimodal Wave Conditions in a Complex Coastal Setting - Geophysical Research Letters,44, 12,315-12,323. https://doi. org/10.1002/2017GL,January 2017
Application of the Most Likely Extreme Response Method for Wave Energy Converters - ASME,https://doi.org/10.1115/OMAE2016-54751,October 2016
Wave-breaking turbulence in the ocean surface layer - Journal of Physical Oceanography,Vol. 46, No. 1, pp1857-1870,June 2016
Validated coastal flood modeling at Imperial Beach, California: Comparing total water level, empirical and numerical overtopping methodologies - Coastal Engineering, 111,pp94-104,January 2016
Data Mining Pt. Reyes Buoy for Rare Wave Groups - Journal of Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering,January 2016
Mid-El Nino Erosion at Nourished and Unnourished Southern California Beaches - Geophysical Research Letters,43, 4510–4516, doi:10.1002/2016GL068612.,January 2016
Field evidence of beach profile evolution toward equilibrium - Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans,J. Geophys. Res. Oceans,120, 7574–7597, doi:10.1,November 2015
Tropical to Extratropical: Marine Environmental Changes Associated with Superstorm Sandy Prior to its Landfall - Geophysical Research Letters,https://doi.org/10.1002/2014GL061357,November 2014
A numerical model for free infragravity waves: Definition and validation at regional and global scales - Ocean Modelling,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2014.02.006,March 2014
Navy Nearshore Ocean Prediction Systems - Oceanography,27(3):80-91, http://dx.doi.org/10.5670/oceanog.201,January 2014
Wave Breaking Turbulence at the Offshore Front of the Columbia River Plume - Geophysical Research Letters,41, 8987-8993, doi:10.1002/2014GL062274.,January 2014
Urban Coastal Flood Prediction: Integrating Wave Overtopping, Flood Defenses and Drainage - Coastal Engineering,January 2014
Verification of Wave Measurement Systems - Marine Technology Society,https://doi.org/10.4031/MTSJ.47.5.11,September 2013
An Inner-Shelf Wave Forecasting System for the U.S. Pacific Northwest - Weather and Forecasting,DOI: 10.1175/WAF-D-12-00055.1,January 2013
Wind, waves, and acoustic background levels at Station ALOHA - JGR Oceans,https://doi.org/10.1029/2011JC007267,March 2012
Rogue wave observations off the US West Coast - Oceanography,January 2011
An Inexpensive Instrument for Measuring Wave Exposure and Water Velocity - Limnology and Oceanography: Methods,January 2011
The Dissipation of Wind Wave Energy Across a Fringing Reef at Ipan, Guam - Coral Reefs (2011),30(Suppl 1): 71. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00338-01,January 2011
Wave Observations from Central California: SeaSonde Systems and In Situ Wave Buoys - Journal of Sensors,vol. 2011, Article ID 728936, 18 pages, 2011. http,January 2011
Characterizing the Wave Energy Resource of the US Pacific Northwest - Renewable Energy,January 2011
Wave setup over a Pacific Island fringing reef - JGR Oceans,https://doi.org/10.1029/2010JC006455,December 2010
Forcing of resonant modes on a fringing reef during tropical storm Man-Yi - Geophysical Research Letters,https://doi.org/10.1029/2008GL036259,February 2009
Pacific Hindcast Performance of Three Numerical Wave Models - Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology,January 2009
California Wave Energy Resource Evaluation - Journal of Coastal Research,23:3 pp. 679-690.,January 2007
Digital Mapping of California Wave Energy Resource - International Journal of Energy Research,January 2007
Forecasting and hindcasting waves with the SWAN model in the Southern California Bight - Coastal Engineering,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2006.06.011,August 2006
Observations of surf infrasound in Hawai‘i - Geophysical Research Letters,https://doi.org/10.1029/2003GL018614,December 2003
The Wave Climate of the Pacific Northwest (Oregon and Washington): A Comparison of Data Sources - Journal of Coastal Research,January 1997

Reports

The Data Processing and Quality Control of the Marine Atmospheric Boundary Layer Measurement Systems Deployed by the Naval Postgraduate School During the Casper-West Field Campaign - January 2019
Post-Irma Unmanned Aircraft System (UAS) Coastal Storm Impact Surveys - January 2019
Estimation of Non-Geophysical Doppler and Wave Doppler, and inversion algorithm for SKIM - January 2019
The Coastal Model Test Bed Initialization and Setup: CMS-Wave - January 2019
Understanding Regional Shoreline Change and Coastal Processes at the Sunset Beach Region, Oahu, Hawaii - January 2018
Assessing and Communicating the Impacts of Climate Change on the Southern California Coast - January 2018
Emerging National Data Buoy Center (NDBC) Wave Systems - January 2018
The IRI Grid System for Use with WAVEWATCH III - January 2018
Final Report: The Response of Kelp Forest Organisms to Spatial and Temporal Variation in Wave Energy in the California Channel Islands - January 2018
A Cost-Benefit Analysis of SWAN with Source Team Package ST6 - January 2018
Manual for the Use of Real-Time Oceanographic Data Quality Control Flags - January 2017
San Francisco Bay Integrated Flood Forecasting Project Summary Report - January 2017
Extreme Ocean Wave Conditions for Northern California Wave Energy Conversion Device - January 2011